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Bamboo Fabric, Wool Fabric, Organic Cotton Fabric

  • Ruffle Bum Tutorial

    I have been asked a few times how I make my ruffles for diapers so I figured it was time to take pictures when I recently had to make one for a project.

    Let’s get started! You can do this using ANY pattern. For the purpose of this tutorial I am sewing an Ultimate Pocket Diaper.

    First you will want to decide on the pattern you are going to use and the materials you want in your finished diaper. For this diaper I am using PUL for the outer and the ruffles and Stay Dri Wicking fabric for the inner. I am also using FOE for binding the edges of my pocket, 1/4 inch poly braid elastic for the back of the diaper, and 3/8 inch lastin for the ruffles. You want to make sure that you have a ball point needle (80/12 is what I use) and 100% polyester thread (I use Gutermann thread….love the color choices). You will want to select your closure. For this diaper I am using EZ Adjust Tape in white and pre-cut tabs. Grab a washable fabric marker and some pins that are safe for knit fabrics.

    I like to transfer my patterns to template plastic to make them last longer. Here I have my diaper pattern traced out and I have drawn where I want my ruffles to go on the template.

    6470

    Using a hem gauge you might find it helpful to draw the fold line for the elastic tab, it will help later on when making your casing.

    6474

    You will see that I have 3 lines going across the pattern. I like to line up my middle row with the back leg elastic. Then measure and mark 1/2 an inch above and below that line. To determine how long the ruffles will be I generally use the back elastic mark as my guide and draw a line vertically across the ruffle guidelines. This will mark my start and stop point for the ruffles. Transfer the ruffle guidelines to right side of the outer layer of your diaper.

    6488

    You will cut your ruffles to be at least four times as long as the measurement from the edge of the pattern piece to the vertical line. Cut a little longer if you want fuller ruffles. My ruffles are 18 inches long, 2 inches longer than my measurement of 16 inches. I have three ruffles in coordinating colors and a print for this diaper. I like my ruffles to be 2 1/2 inches high.

    6467

    Now that you have your ruffle strips cut out you will want to mark the horizontal center of the strips. I use a sharpie in a color that will not show through the PUL for this. Once this is done flip the strips over and using a washable fabric marker, mark the vertical center of the strips.

    6469

    Now you are ready to gather the strips. You will need to cut a piece of Lastin for each ruffle. In this tutorial I cut my Lastin with a rather short tail. Make your end tails longer, it makes it easier. Mine are shown at 1/2 an inch from each end. It is easier to grab and pull the Lastin if the tails are 1 to 2 inches long. To get the right length of Lastin you will need a piece that is half the width of the finished ruffle plus tails. If your finished ruffle is 8 inches long then you will need a piece that is 8 inches long. Mark in with a sharpie 2 inches from each cut end.

    6471

    Now you will take the Lastin and pin it to the wrong side of the ruffle strip, centering your line on the Lastin. I like to line up my mark on the Lastin with the edge of the strip then pin about an inch below that. This lets me have room to stitch a little before removing the pin.

    6489

    Set your machine to a wide 3 step zigzag stitch. Place the ruffle under the presser foot. Stitch just a stitch or two and back tack.

    Then with the needle sunk down into the Lastin, grab the Lastin from behind the presser foot with your left hand and the strip where the end of the Lastin is pinned down with your right hand.

    6491

    Stitch slowly down the length of the Lastin. Anytime you need to stop stitching you want the needle to be in the down position. One ruffle finished.

    6492

    All three finished and ready to stitch to outer layer.

    6494

    Starting with the ruffle you want to have in the center of the stack, match vertical center of the strip with the marks you made on the outer. Pin ruffle in place along the horizontal line.

    6495

    Stitch the ruffle in place with a straight stitch. Back tack at the ends to lock your stitches and reinforce the line of stitching at the ends.

    6496

    Remove pins and line up the top ruffle. Push the center ruffle down and out of the way when pinning the top ruffle down. Again make sure to match up the centers of the ruffle with the lines on the outer layer. Stitch down the same way you did for the center ruffle.

    6497

    For the last ruffle you will follow the same steps as the first two ruffles. When stitching this ruffle down I make sure I go slow and keep the ruffle straight. If can get a little wonky with the pressure from the other two ruffles if you aren’t careful.

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    All finished with the ruffles! Time to sew on the loop tape on the tummy.

    6499

    Grab a scrap that is wider and longer than your piece of loop tape. Pin to the wrong side of the outer layer. Tape the loop tape down with clear tape. I find this is easier than using pins to hold it in place.

    6473

    To stitch hook and loop tape it is recommended that you use a medium length zigzag stitch that goes just over the edge of the tape. This will help prevent fraying of the tape after laundering. I like to start about an inch in from one end. Back tack your stitches to lock them and begin stitching. You want to have your needle stopping in the down position so you can easier go around the corners. When you get close to a piece of tape, stop stitching and remove the tape before continuing.

    6479 6480

    When you get to the first corner you will pivot the diaper with the needle down to be able to go around the corner. Stitch down the short end, pivot and continue stitching down the long edge. Repeat previous steps as you reach each remaining corner. Overlap your stitching slightly with your start point and back tack to secure your stitching.

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    Flip diaper layer over and trim the scrap of PUL 1/4 of an inch away from the stitching.

    6482

    Put this layer aside and grab your inner layer. All marks for elastic and laundry tabs have been transferred to the inner layer prior to cutting out.

    6475

    Cut your lengths of FOE as specified in the pattern instructions for the size you are making. Mark in 2 inches from each cut end for your grabbing tails.

    6476

    Line a piece of FOE up with the inner layer at the first elastic marks. Pin in place at this mark and repeat for the second mark. Smooth FOE along edge of inner and pin again.

    6477

    Repeat for other side. When finished your inner layer will look something like this:

    6478

    To attach FOE to the inner layer you want to set your machine for a wide 3 step zigzag. Start stitching at the edge of the fabric.

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    When you get to the elastic mark you will grab the tail of FOE behind the presser foot and the FOE where pinned at the second mark. Before stretching be sure that your needle is sunk down into the fabric and FOE. Stretch the FOE fully, gently guiding the inner layer in the FOE to make sure it is fully sandwiched in the FOE. Stitch down the length of FOE and stop stretching while stitching when you reach the second elastic mark.

    6485

    Trim the tails of the FOE flush with the inner layer.

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    Pin the inner and outer layers right sides together. Stitch front and back together. Begin stitching at the folded edge on the FOE and stop just off the folded edge, repeat for the second yoke.

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    Stitch the elastic down at the back between the elastic points.

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    Now to make the casings for the elastic. This part can be a little tricky. Fold the tab in to the wrong side of the outer layer along the line you drew along the curve. Pin in place. Repeat for the other side.

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    Pin ruffles out of the way.

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    I use a blind hem stitch foot with my needle set all the way to the left to stitch the casing closed. Go slow and keep the inner layer out of the way. Stitch the casing from elastic point to elastic point.

    6507 6506

    Turn diaper right side out and thread elastic into casings. Stitch at ends where elastic points are to secure elastic.

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    Stitch tabs and laundry tabs down to diaper using a medium zigzag stitch.

    6511 6512

    All done! Toss in the wash to rinse off your marks then dry in the dryer to seal your stitching holes. Stuff the diaper and put on baby.

    6513 6514
  • Converting a prefold to a fitted diaper

    This tutorial will go over how I convert a prefold diaper to a fitted diaper. I am using a brand new unwashed Indian unbleached premium prefold, infant size. You can do this with a prefold that is already washed and prepped or you can use a brand new one like I am here.

    Grab a prefold, print the template and let’s get started!

    First step is smooth your prefold so the corners are straight. Iron if you need to. Once your corners are smooth and you have as close to a 90 degree angle at the corners as possible it’s time to trace the cut lines from the template.

    trace and cut

     

    Once everything is cut out you will want to head to the serger. If you do not have a serger you can use an overcast stitch along the edges or fold in the raw edges 1/4 of an inch on each side and top-stitch 1/8 of an inch from the edge to close and secure.

    Line the raw edge of the wing up with the blade of the serger. You do not want to cut anything off here so disengage your blade if you need to. You want to keep the fabric as straight as possible so you can serge the inside corner.

    serge step 1

    When you are serging you will gently push the fabric with your left hand and guide with your right to keep it straight at the blade.

    serge step 2

    Repeat this for all four cut outs.

    all serged

    Use your preferred method for securing tails. For these I like to fold the tail over the stitching and use a tight zigzag stitch to secure, then trim close to the stitching.

    secure tails

    tight zigzag

    trim tails

    With the outside of the diaper facing up, pin the sleeves together.

    pin sleeve wrong way

    Serge the long edge of the sleeve. You want to cut off about 1/8th of an inch here.

    serge sleeve

    Secure the tails like you did at the cut outs and turn right side out so the sleeve is on the inside of the diaper. Center the sleeve and adjust it until you are happy with how it looks. Pin through the center of the diaper.

    pin sleeve

    Using a ruler you will want to measure in 3/4 of an inch from the outer edge at the leg curve.

    3quarters away

    Draw your casings along each leg.

    draw casings

    Stitch along these lines with a straight stitch. Make sure to back-stitch at the beginning and ending of these stitch lines to secure your thread and reinforce the stitching.

    stitch casing

    Cut your elastic. If making a OSFM prefold conversion you can use your favorite OS leg elastic lengths. Adjust as needed for your baby or the size of the prefold.

    cut elastic

    Using a bodkin begin to thread your elastic into the casing.

    insert bodkin

    Insert the elastic until the cut edge is lined up with the serged edge of the casing.

    thread and stop

    Stitch along the bottom edge of the serging to tack and secure the elastic in the casing.

    tack down

    Continue to thread the elastic through the casing to the other end. Pull elastic so the edge secured with the bodkin is flush with the serging. Pin the elastic into the casing to secure.

    end of elastic

    Remove bodkin and stitch across the elastic.

    elastic sewn in2

    Repeat with other leg.

    sewn up

    Using the free sandwich soaker pattern cut out and serge up a booster or doubler if desired.

    booster

    Slip insert into sleeve.

    booster in

    All done! Grab your favorite cover and put your converted prefold diaper on your adorable baby and admire your handiwork ????

  • Converting the OS Fitted from a FDR to a SDR

    I have been asked a lot recently how to convert the FDR(fold down rise) on the OS Fitted diaper to a SDR(snap down rise). I finally had the chance to take some pictures and show you.

    Gather your supplies. You can find the pattern here. For this diaper I am making it turned and top-stitched. It will be a hybrid so instead of an absorbent hidden layer I am using anti-pill fleece.

    Let’s get started! I have stacked my inner and hidden body layers, traced the pattern and will cut them both out together.

     

    Before cutting you will want to secure the layers so they don’t shift around. I like to pin inside the tracing line.

    Once you have these layers cut out you can set them aside. I personally like to baste them together inside the seam allowance as this helps them to stay put when sewing the diaper together. If making this diaper with a snap in soaker go ahead and set the snaps in the body now. Remember to use sockets for inside the diaper and studs on the soaker.

    Trace the pattern on your outer layer. Using a washable marker transfer the snap settings on the tummy and wings as well as the elastic points.

    Cut this layer out.

    Now to alter the tummy snap settings. For a SDR diaper you want the row of snaps to be in the middle of the two rows. I like to follow the curve of the bottom row but you can make them straight across if you like.

     

     

    New tummy snap settings are in purple. Now you need to take a ruler and figure out rise snap placement. I initally started to use a 4 inch width between the snaps following the snaps on the bottom row but changed that as I was worried about the snaps being in the way when I cased the elastic. At a minimum the rise snaps need to be 1 1/4 inches away from the edge of the leg curve. I moved my points in 1/8 of an inch on each side.

    Set the stud marks one inch below the new row of tummy snaps. Using your ruler measure down from these marks 7/8th of an inch to 1 inch. I made mine 7/8th of an inch. Repeat this until you have a total of 3 to 4 rise settings on the diaper.

     

     

    Here you can see that I have 4 rise settings on this diaper. Apply your snaps making sure to back the fabric with a scrap before setting the snaps.

     

     

    After setting the snaps trim the scrap and proceed to following the sewing instructions in the pattern.

    When all finished your diaper will look something like this:

    smallest setting – newborn size

    largest setting – large – toddler

    Make your insert and you are ready to wrap this bad boy on your little one!

     

    I hope that you found this tutorial helpful! As always if you have any questions please do not hesitate to contact me via comment here, Facebook, via email or text. I am always happy to help.

    Happy sewing!

  • Making ITH Key Chain Mama Cloth

    This tutorial shows making the key chain with an exposed core, steps for making the AIO with hidden core.  The process is much the same for making on with a hidden core.

    This little project is great for using up your scraps.  Make a bunch for giveaway prizes, gifts etc.

    1. Load design onto your machine.  I am starting with the core piece.  Hoop a layer of tear away stabilizer.

    2. A placement running stitch will stitch out first.

    3. Place layer of fabric for core over stitching.

    4. A tack down line will stitch out.

    5. Place another layer for the core down.  A tack down stitch will stitch out now.

    6. Place top layer of core over second layer.

    7. A running stitch and zig zag tack down will stitch out.

    8. Use sharp applique scissors to trim all the fabric layers close to the stitching.

    9. If using a napped fabric like I am here with my velour, you will want to place water soluble stabilizer over the core before stitching out the satin cover stitch.

    10. After cover stitch step you can remove the core from the stabilizer. Remove stabilizer from back of core at this time.

     

    11. Hoop a layer of tear away stabilizer and load the AIO 2 design to your machine. Stitch out first step.  This is your fabric placement guide.

    12. Place your inner layer right side up over the placement line.  A tack down line will now stitch out.

    • add a ribbon loop at this step, I missed that when making my test of the design.  Tape the loop down so the tack down catches it.

    13. After the tack down line stitches the inner top-stitching line stitches.  I changed my thread color for this, you do not have to.

    14. Place outer layer right side down over the inner layer.  A running stitch tack down will secure the layers.

    15. Remove hoop from machine and cut out with pinking shears, leave a tab at the opening.

    16. Trim any threads on the back and remove the stabilizer.

    17. Turn right side out, use a turning tool to smooth your curves and poke the wings out.

     

    18. You can hand stitch the opening closed or use a little glue.  I opted to use Fabri-tac.

    19. I also glued my core down.  You can pin it down and top stitch it.

    20. Add snaps and you are done!!

  • Making an ITH Key Chain Mini Diaper

    I had a request the other day in the BST group to turn the mama cloth key chain mini into an ITH design. After I did that I thought it would be fun to turn the key chain diaper into an ITH design.

    Here is how to make a key chain diaper mostly ITH with your embroidery machine. If you are going to top-stitch and add elastic you will need a sewing machine as well.

     

    1. Gather supplies for the project. I have my basting spray, scissors, elastic, turning tool, stabilizer, scraps, and thread snips.

     

    2. Hoop your stabilizer. You will need one layer of tear away stabilizer. Press start on your machine. First step is the placement running stitch for the diaper.

     

    3. Place your outer layer right side up over the placement stitching. Tape your ribbon loop to the back edge of the diaper. Layer is now tacked down with a running stitch.

    4. After the tack down step, small circles stitch out to indicate where the elastic should be sewn in, as well as where to set your snaps.

     

    5. Lightly spray basting spray to the right side of your inner layer. Press and smooth down over the outer layer. Inner layer will now be tacked down with a running stitch.

     

    6. The next step is an additional zig zag stitch around the edges of the diaper to secure the layers together.

     

    7. Remove from hoop and trim all the jump threads on the back side of the key chain diaper.

     

    8. Gently tear away the stabilizer from the stitching.

     

    9. If you used a light colored thread you can take a sharpie and mark where you elastic marks are to make them easier to see.

     

    10. Place pins inside the seam allowance of the diaper and prepare to stitch your elastic down.

     

    11. Use a medium 3 step zig zag stitch to sew the elastic down just outside the stitching lines.

     

    12. Use regular scissors or pinking shears and trim around the diaper. Be sure to clip the corners so the diaper is easy to turn right side out at the corners. Leave a tab at the opening for easy closure.

     

    13. Turn diaper right side out.

     

    14. Carefully top-stitch if desired and add snaps. All done!!

     

    Happy Sewing!

    Krista

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