We ship either UPS or USPS. If you chose a rush service please let us know prior so that we can confirm eligibiltiy. Simply placing an express or overnight order cannot guarantee that service.
We are no longer able to offer free or reduced shipping. We have tried this method a few times in the past, and as a small family run business it results in a loss for us each time we attempt this. We do negotiate with UPS to keep rates as low as possible as well as maintaining the cart to reflect proper weights on our products.
Insurance is HIGHLY recommended. If you want insurance, please let me know and I can get a quote for you. Packages do become property of the post office, Fedex or UPS sometimes, and they won't cover them if we don't buy insurance. Goods delivered throughout common carriers or sent via USPS are at the risk of buyer. In no event shall the seller be liable for loss of profits, late deliveries, damages for breach of contract by buyer, or other consequential or contingent losses. Fabrics are sold F. O. B. and we are not Responsible for freight. Nor are we responsible for miss deliveries. If the tracking says it was delivered to your address, postal declarations take precedence.
Orders normally ship in 1-3 business days. Regular shipping days are Monday through Saturday. Please be alert for pre orders. Arrival dates are estimates, and do not guarantee shipping dates. Refunds are subject to the terms of the payment system used. Paypal is now charging a minimum of 30 cents for a refund. If you use a credit card, refund fees may apply.
Our bamboo fiber, which is our own brand of bamboo fiber, is a regenerated cellulose fiber - made from the natural organic bamboo by a high tech prcess that is non-polluting to the environment during production. The process is a combination of our patent Numbers: ZL03128496.5,004100464515 and 2005-G-13848. Our bamboo fiber is different from other supplier's "viscose from bamboo" fiber because of the density of our fibers, as compared to our competitor's fiber. The density of our bamboo fiber is bigger and larger, thus providing more anti-bacterial properties. We have SGS testing certificates verifying this factor and we, along with most of the World, stand by SGS's findings. SGS is the world's leading inspection, verification, testing and certification company. Recognized as the global benchmark for quality and integrity, they employ over 56,000 people and operate a network of more than 1,000 offices and more than 100 laboratories around the world. They are the most recognized and established certification laboratory worldwide.The main chemical used during the process is sodium hydroxide, most commonly known as caustic soda or CS2. Caustic soda is one of the most widely used chemicals in the world. It is used in food production, soap making, manufacturing of bio-diesel, production of paper, and is used on nearly all cotton fabrics, including organic cotton (during the wet processing). Caustic soda is approved for use on textiles under the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS). We have test reports that support heavy metal lead testing and chemical free testing. One of the most important parts of the process is all recyclable. We process in a hermetic container where 100% of the chemicals that are used are trapped and containe - not released into our factory, environment or atmosphere. 73% of CS2's are recycled, 26% are recycled into H2SO4. So those chemicals do not pollute any part of the environment. Each step of the process is watched for many reasons: Company policy, brand commitment, and China's strict environmental ethical standards. We know many of these processing issues are extremely sensitive and we are committed to be a leader in the eco/green industry when it comes to bamboo fiber, but also for the safety of our team/staff. We do not claim the entire process is "green", but we do strive to be as eco-friendly as possible and are accountable for our process and recycling of these chemicals. Our bamboo fiber also has passed OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 which is another leader when it comes to testing for harmful substances. We have passed these OEKO TEX STANDARDS 5 years in a row. The bamboo we use and process is certified by (OCIA) Organic Crops Improvement Association International which is certifies our bamboo is organic bamboo under "wild crops" and certified organic under "organic farms". Our vision and commitment has always been to be as eco-friendly as possible and has not changed in any part of our processing from start to finish.
We offer 3rd party testing for all customers of bamboo fiber, not just companies that buy our bamboo fiber brand. This test assures that the rayon or viscose fiber the consumer is using is rayon/viscose from bamboo or, conversely, if the rayon contains zero properties from bamboo. Basically, we want the buyer know if they are using real bamboo rayon vs just rayon. This program has been greatly used and seems to continually be used by many fiber buyers, yarn spinners, knitters, cut/sew manufacturers, brands and designers.
We have developed many good partnerships around the World because of our open commitment to share our policies. We invite anyone from the eco/green textile industry to tour our factory and operation. Many of you have been to visit us and continue to visit us on a regular basis. Many of you have already enjoyed the many benefits of "rayon from bamboo" or "viscose from bamboo" fiber garments or products. Nothing has changed when it comes to wanting a fiber that is superior in feel and comfort that bamboo offers the end user.
a. Yarn used is certified organic cotton.
b. All equipment used in the knitting processes of the greige fabric as it passed through each stage of knitting was physically and mechanically cleaned to remove lint and other contamination from non-organic based yarns and fibers. The greige fabric was processed in an isolation chamber to further eliminate potential contamination from other non-organic based yarns and fibers.
c. No synthetic textile oils, synthetic waxes, and silicone based surfactants, silicone resins, or other synthetic based resins and synthetic gums were used in the knitting process of the organic fiber based fabrics.
d. A natural based mineral oil was used in knitting of greige fabric.
e. All greige fabric was bagged to prevent contamination of greige fabric after knitting, in storage at knitting mill or dye/finish facility.
f. All equipment used in the processes of batching, scouring or dyeing, slitting, tumble drying, napping, padding, and framing organic fiber based fabrics as it passed through each stage of production were physically and mechanically cleaned to remove lint and other contamination from non-organic based yarns and fibers.
g. All buggies used in storing the organic fabric as it passed through each stage of production were cleaned prior to use and were covered while the organic fabric was stored in the buggies.
h. No synthetic textile oils, synthetic waxes, and silicone based surfactants, silicone resins, or other synthetic based resins and synthetic gums were used in the preparation of equipment or in the equipment while in use to process organic fiber based fabrics.
i. The exact scour bath formula is kept on file along with MSDS for each ingredient in the dye or scour bath for review and/or audit.
j. In scouring, we used one or more of the following: hot water; low impact and biodegradable anionic, cationic and non-ionic surfactants; citric or acetic acid; and protease, lipase, amylase and cellulase enzymes.
k. In scouring, we did not use: hydrochloric or sulfuric acid as a processing ingredient.
l. The exact bleaching formula is kept on file along with MSDS for each ingredient in the dye or scour bath for review and/or audit.
m. In bleaching, we used one or more of the following: hot water; protease, lipase, amylase and cellulase enzymes, citric acid or acetic acid; or Soda ash, sodium silicate, caustic soda at a maximum concentration of 3% on weight of goods; and hydrogen peroxide at a maximum of 3% on weight of goods, if removed by a final enzymes and/or hot water and citric acid or acetic acid scour, so that no residual materials remain in the finished fabric.
n. In bleaching we did not use: chlorine; sodium chlorite and sodium hypochlorite; optical brighteners and/or bluing; or perborate bleaches including sodium perborate and sodium monopersulfate, or heavy metals or mordants.
o. The exact finishing agent formula is kept on file along with MSDS for each ingredient in the finishing bath for review and/or audit.
p. Finishing agents to be used must be natural oils including coconut oil, banana oil, pine (tall) oil, or other natural plant or animal oils, natural fatty acids including oleic acid and stearic acid, other plant or animal acids, or tallow; and corn or potato starch; or Cationic softeners, as a finishing aid in Sanforization or finishing, or PVA (polyvinyl alcohol) in glazing or beetling finishing.
q. In finishing the fabric we did not use: formaldehyde and formaldehyde-urea resins, silicone or silicone-based finishes, synthetic resins or resin based finishes, synthetic gums or gum-based finishes, synthetic oils, or synthetic waxes.
r. The exact dye formula is kept on file along with MSDS for each ingredient in the dye bath for review and/or audit.
s. The only dyes to be used will be natural, low-energy, non-metal, reactive dyes, bi-functional dyes, or low impact dyes.
t. All fabric will be double bagged to assure that it is not contaminated during storage prior to shipment to the customer.
* Warm wash, cold rinse and dry on second hottest setting.
You can wash with a regular mild laundry detergent but will get better results from a wash formulated specifically for wool.
You can expect a 25-35% shrinkage. For one yard expect to lose 6-8 inches.
Once your wool is felted, you can cut and sew. Wash on cold and air dry to prevent further shrinkage.
This process applies to both 100% wool and to wool blend. Though the wool blend should be able to be washed gently after felting.
I put the pot of water on the stove and add the dye. Stir in the dye and let it go a bit.
Then I toss in the DRY wool.
Stir it up and bring it to a boil. Really, a boil. You don't have to stir a lot while waiting for the boil. I stir now and then, but nothing wild.
Once it is boiling, I add 1 cup of vinegar, while stirring like mad. I stir about 5 minutes and then see if there is still color in the water. I take out a clear measuring cup full of hot water to see if it is clear. If it isn't, I add more vinegar, stirring like mad again. It should clear after 5-10 minutes. If not, more vinegar.
After I am satisfied I throw it in the washer just to SPIN. Spin it out and toss it in the dryer for 15 minutes.
Wash mashine dying is a little different but the principles are the same. I first prepare the dye bath. I like to use the wash machine, so I run nearby water to get it hot, then fill the washer to the desired level with super hot water. A lot of times I will turn up my hot water tank so that the dye will set well. Ok, now that the washer is filling with hot, I get my powdered acid dye and add 1/2 teaspoon dry powder to the water. Let the machine finish filling and then agitate it for about 2 minutes. This distributes the dye, and makes sure all the clumps of dye are broken up. I add the fabric to the machine while it is agitating and let it agitate about 5 minutes. At that point I check the wash to be sure everything looks ok. I then add 1 cup of vinegar, and reset the timer to run another 12 minutes or so. I let it agitate 10 minutes, and then reset and let it agitate some more. After the time has elapsed, I spin the water out and put it right into the dryer on high heat for 30 minutes. This helps set the dye, and finishes felting the wool. I DO NOT wash or felt the wool prior to dying. I also DO NOT use any soap in the dye bath. I was doing this before and I got a lot more streaking than I do by omitting this step.
If your cover needs to be lanolized (it will begin to feel wet) you can do so by dissolving 1 tablespoon of lanolin in 1 cup of hot water, cap the jar, and shake vigorously to emulsify. Let the mixture cool slightly. Pour it over the inside of the cover in your sink or basin, aiming at the area that gets the wettest. Squeeze the items a few times to distribute the lanolin mixture. Soak for 15 minutes or so, and then dry as directed above. When using liquid lanolin, you may use warm water to emulsify.
You can also try the dry lanolizing method, which is terrific for conditioning your hands as well! Simply place a dollop of lanolin and rub it all over your clean hands as if you were putting on hand cream. Work the lanolin into your hands for a minute or two, then wipe off the excess onto the inside of your diaper cover, rubbing it in well. Be gentle!
Use lanolin as necessary following the wool cover care instructions above.